The red brick schoolhouse that is Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan Airport is a study in inefficiency: visa applications scattered everywhere, a few bored officers napping, a broken metal detector and luggage scanner (you have to push your luggage through; the belt doesn’t work) and a faded banner welcoming you to Mt. Everest. There are no queues. Neither Nepalese nor Indian currency is accepted to pay for the tourist visa. But step past the chain link fence and taxi drivers surround you, grabbing at your bag, offering to take you into town for inflated prices.